The discourse of men's facial care products in Instagram from the Foucauldian perspective

Talking about body appearance, of course, cannot be separated from metrosexual men who tend to place great importance on appearance, from the way of dress to rituals in caring for their bodies. The men's body has been viewed and utilised as a commodity from the capitalist industry to rival the women's body. This study seeks to explore the discourse Erto's Men as one of facial care product for men built through posts on Instagram because Erto's Men is the face care product that appears the most in searches via #metrosexual on Instagram. The method used in this research is a critical discourse analysis on the @ertosmen Instagram post from June until August 2020. The results obtained in this study indicate that Erto's Men as a men facial skincare product builds a disciplining men's bodies by juxtaposing metrosexual representations through clean and bright skin, and with masculine representations through beard growth. So that through this representation, Erto's Men also helps build a health discourse for men through masculine concepts.


INTRODUCTION
traditional masculinity ideals, violent sexism, and sexism (Mattos Feijó et al., 2018). While the eroticisation of masculinity in the men body is rising, the magazine still adopts the preferred masculinity brand as typical men in formal clothing (Khoo & Karan, 2007). The media also plays a critical role in creating contemporary portrayals of sexuality and gender and draws attention to androgynous, macho, feminine, girly or quite attractive characters offered to their audiences (Mercer & Attwood, 2018). At the same time, this is an opportunity for the capitalist industry to make the media a container in creating a form of body discipline against the appearance of the men body.
It is undeniable that appearance is the first thing that can be seen to know someone's personality. Men who care about their identity and appearance are called metrosexuals (Janowska, 2008). Metrosexuals are urban men who adopt various self-care and sartorial behaviours (Coad, 2016;Diefendorf & Bridges, 2020). Metrosexuality has played a crucial rhetorical role in reconciling market masculinity with natural masculinity through strategic homosocial communication (Flanders & Hatfield, 2013;Shugart, 2008). Metrosexual men often act or play a role in lifestyle development because lifestyle is not seen in other age groups. Repeated behaviour that inevitably creates Habitus patterns. Habitus is often described, to put it another way, as a habit associated with popular activity seen from the self-appearance, self-compliant management method with the typical body conditions (Zheng, 2019).
The metrosexual aspect is carefully portrayed. Manly macho always looks trendy, always neatly dressed, wearing a leather jacket and a big motorcycle, still clean, especially on the face, taking care of his body and pure white faces (Bailey et al., 2020;Pranata, 2020). Habits and lifestyles achieved through consumption activities to support the appearance become the producers' granary in satisfying the metrosexual men's desires in achieving satisfaction with their appearance.
Historically, masculinity has been believed to be natural, embraced and marked by the disorder. On the other hand, women are generally seen as "somehow more biological, physical and human than men (Grosz, 1994). Such as jewellery is identified more with women than men because jewellery is identified with beauty. So, it is very rare for men to use jewellery than women. However, behind the beauty of the jewellery that will add to the beauty in appearance, it turns out that jewellery has negative effects. As noted in a previous study by Ott et al., (2019), jewellery in the navel, for example, cannot be removed, can increase the bone density measured from the vertebra below (Ott et al. This becomes a challenge for the capitalist industry in disciplining the men body which holds a masculine concept that is identical with simplicity. So, masculinity, which is defined as men's innate nature, will be very contradictory to metrosexual men who tend to pay more attention to appearance. Men are aware of the sexual dimorphism of facial features and desire to preserve or improve typical masculine features. When people gain confidence that doctors can preserve a masculine appearance, the number of men seeking cosmetic procedures will increase. Given the disparity between women and men undergoing cosmetic procedures, as of 2015, men were consumers of close to 10 per cent of all cosmetic treatments (Handler & Goldberg, 2018). However, currently, the demands of appearance have been used as an excuse by the capitalist industry, one of which is facial skincare products. Facial skincare products and cosmetics that support or promote facial dermatosis. Properly chosen skincare can build a barrier-repair environment that helps rebuild a healing biofilm and minimise facial redness (Draelos, 2014), one of Erto's Men.
Erto's Men facial treatment is a new product as a soap for facial washing (Shopee, 2017). Erto's Men tries to build a men image today with clean, bright, and well-groomed skin. It cannot be said to be handsome if the face is pimply, dirty and dull (Erto's Men Instagram, 2017). Nevertheless, on 2 June 2020, Erto's Men posted his newest product with a caption "Men with beards are more masculine! ready stock only 99 thousand" (Erto's Men Instagram, 2020a). There is a change in masculinity's definition to metrosexual, where masculinity was initially synonymous with physical abilities such as men's physical power. Right today, masculinity is influencing the way people feel for themselves. It is, therefore, a confusion for men to decide their position between masculine and metrosexual. In addition, the power of social media continues to construct the ideal definition of men.
Social media has given rise to a new reality in everyday life in the age of technological and internet transformation, in particular (Aljuboori et al., 2020). The use of social media has risen significantly in recent years. Amount of global online social networking (SNS) users Approximately 2.46 billion in 2017 and approximately 3.09 billion social media users worldwide are anticipated by the end of 2021 (Müller et al., 2016). Instagram is one of the social media platforms that have been present in human life to promote all sorts of day-today activities. The rise of self-planning and self-discrepancy has mediated Instagram's effect on body happiness. This mediation influence also varied in self-esteem depending on the users of Instagram, such that the negative effect of Instagram's use of selfconfidence and self-discrepancy on the body is more significant for those with lower self-esteem and lower self-esteem (Ahadzadeh et al., 2017). Instagram uses the Insta Stories feature and uploads images and videos to feeds for self-disclosure (Setiadi, 2019). The selfdisclosure of Internet users by uploading their activities depends on their mood and other parties' demands for their contents to be delivered according to their own needs (Mahardika & Farida, 2019).
In addition, the focus of men as research subjects who are associated with facial care products is still minimal. Because in previous studies that focused on men and masculinity was more associated with relation to men's environmentalism (Landry et al., 2019), reproductive and mating strategies are reliable indicators of women's preference for masculine men (Niu & Zheng, 2020). This background underlies researchers to explore the discourse Erto's Men built through posts on Instagram in early June 2020. Foucault's theory of power used in this research suggests that power is often directly linked to knowledge: there is no power if there is no knowledge and no knowledge without power. However, knowledge and power are not the same things. On the one hand, knowledge has a powerful influence, and power requires knowledge (Foucault, 1993).

METHODOLOGY
This article used a qualitative approach and Van Dijk's Critical Discourse as a research method (Figure 1). Qualitative research focuses mainly on using methods to examine and explain the nature of social or human issues experienced by other individuals or groups (Creswell & Poth, 2017). Research on discourse is not sufficient to be based solely on text analysis, because the text is only the result of a production practice that must also be observed-also seen how a text is produced. The production process involves a process known as social cognition. Text is formed in a discourse practice, a discourse practice. Van Dijk's study relates to textual analysis, focusing not only on the text but also on a more detailed approach to how the document is organised, not only in individual relationships but also between people. As a result, the study's essential point is using these three dimensions as a fusion unit. The model of analysis is shown in the following figure.
One of the most effective ways of thinking about discourse is to understand that discourse is not just a set of signs or parts of a text but instead a mechanism that has been systematically used to construct an object that is addressed (Mills, 1997). In this way, Van Dijk dissects this theoretical approach's components into three stages: macrostructure, superstructure, and microstructure, as in table 1. Discourse elements in van Dijk's discourse structure include: Macrostructure is an essential sense of a text which the subjects or themes can explore in a text. The superstructure is a discourse feature that refers to a text's context, in which certain parts are already preserved and assembled. The microstructure is a discourse with meanings that can be interpreted as a word, a paragraph, a preposition, a sub sentence, and images from a small part of a text, as in table 2. Unit of analysis in this research is the signs in the @ertosmen Instagram post, which existed from the elements mentioned above (macrostructure, superstructure, and microstructure), from June until August 2020, Erto's men's Instagram profile page can be seen in Figure 2. Erto's Men is a men's facial skincare product with various variants that has a various function that makes the skin bright and healthy, the perfect benefits make the skin healthy (due to facial skin problems such as fine lines, open pores, dull skin due to stress, and ageing to be healthy). In a post on 22 June 2020 (Figure 3), Erto's Men provided the benefits felt by men who used the 'Beard Go Serum' version of Erto's Men product. These benefits are to prevent hair loss, smooth and nourish hair obtained from the content of Morus Alba Root Extract. Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3 is useful in stimulating hair growth. Enriched with isoflavones, Red Clover helps in nourishing and adding volume to The discourse of men's facial care products in Instagram from the Foucauldian perspective -doi: 10.25139/jsk.v5i1.3159 Putranto,T.D. et al. 44 hair. Panax Ginseng to strengthen hair roots and shafts. The way to use this serum is also shown, as the first one must clean the beard before the serum is applied. After that, the serum is sprayed on the beard or the affected area. Then spread the serum and massage lightly until the serum is absorbed. This serum can be used at night and in the morning. Foucault's perspective disciplines the men body by creating images in the minds of men who crave a beard as a form of masculinity through effortless efforts to get a masculine impression when using Erto's Men. Based on the analysis in Table 3, The post illustrates that virility is measured through beards. Erto's Men also give an overview that it is proper to maintain a beard as a man. Discipline on the men body is established through growing beards so that the beard is seen as a manifestation of a man's masculinity through physical appearance. Source: (Erto's Men Instagram, 2020c) On 25 June 2020 (Figure 4), the post is not much different from Erto's Men post on 22 June 2020, regarding the content in Erto's Men version of 'Beard Go Serum' and how to use this product. Erto's Men issued a variant of 'Beard Go Serum' viewed from Foucault's perspective as a form of additional men discipline, which was previously more metrosexual, then added to masculine through growing beards without losing the metrosexual representation. Based on Table 4, the post describes the masculinity of men who go through the beard. Erto's Men as a men facial skincare product creates a masculine impression by growing beards. Erto's Men denies expensive syringe facial skincare products because Erto's Men provides affordable prices for men who want to look masculine by growing beards using Erto's Men. So it is viewed from Foucault's perspective that the discipline of the body being formed is not always associated with financial factors because Erto's Men built an impression in the mind of men who crave a masculine side through growing beards without spending a fortune. Similarities are found in the information about serum Erto's Men that has been previously described. What is different is Erto's Men's nominal price, which is Rp. 120,000 for one bottle of Erto's Men serum. From Foucault's perspective, discipline on the men body, especially on the appearance of the men face, is built through Erto's Men as a product that plays a capitalist role regardless of men's social class. So that social class does not become an obstacle for every man is playing a role in disciplining the body. Based on Table 5, the post illustrates the benefits felt by bearded men by comparing the appearance of bearded men and those without. Erto's Men again emphasises that its products are men's facial skincare products at an affordable price, and what is no less important is that the ingredients used come from natural ingredients. The knowledge built by Erto's Men through body discipline Foucault was created to provide a sense of relief through a statement that links body discipline with men's health benefits through growing beards. Source: (Instagram, 2020f) Erto's Men post on 6 July 2020 ( Figure 6) states that men look macho if they have a beard. Erto's Men construct the men body's discipline through a macho impression that a macho man must also appear in appearance, especially physical appearance through a beard, which makes it appropriate for a man to have a beard. Because in fact, men must look masculine. Based on Table 6, the post describes men with bread and those who are not. However, Erto's gave rise to an image that men with beards felt more benefits than Erto's use, which comes from natural ingredients and affordable. This post revived body discipline by bringing up knowledge in the minds of men who crave masculine side through Erto's Men growing beards. Beards are used as an extension of Erto's Men in attracting men through the definition of masculinity. Source: (Instagram, 2020d) Erto's Men post on 6 July 2020 (Figure 7), Knowledge built by Erto's Men through body discipline Foucault was created to provide a sense of relief through a statement that links body discipline to men's health benefits through growing beards. That men with beards are The discourse of men's facial care products in Instagram from the Foucauldian perspective -doi: 10.25139/jsk.v5i1.3159 Putranto,T.D. et al. 48 healthier than those without beards. After all, beards can prevent bacterial infection because beards protect pores to prevent folliculitis and pseudofolliculitis barbae. Based on Table 7, the post shows that Erto's is the best facial care product with various benefits provided. From Foucault's perspective, Erto's Men build men's satisfaction by creating a sense of pride and luxury towards Erto's Men products. Because Erto's Men built an impression at an affordable price, but through this post, it also adds to the impression that Erto's Men is an affordable product and the best product for men who crave a masculine side. Source: (Instagram, 2020e) Erto's Men post on 29 July 2020 (Figure 8) states that the beard is part of a man's face, making him look more manly. That is why many are obsessed with growing a beard on their face. ERTO'S has a complicated solution. It is easy to use, apply serum to the part of your face/body where you want hair to grow. Apply morning and evening regularly. Disciplining the men body through this post is aimed at men, especially those who seem ignorant and do not want to be complicated in carrying out facial treatments but want to get maximum results. So Erto's Men built knowledge in men's minds as a product that is simple to use but gives maximum impact. Based on Table 8, the post describes that Erto's Men makes men look more manly, and Erto's Men is a product sought after by men who want to look even more manly. Erto's Men construct the men body's discipline into a manly impression that a manly man is judged by his appearance, particularly in physical appearance through a beard, which makes it acceptable for a man to have a beard. Source: (Instagram, 2020a) Erto's Men post on 15 August 2020 (Figure 9) seen from Foucault's perspective, a sense of relief is built by the satisfaction of Erto's Men through the creation of a sense of calm that Erto's Men can grow a beard in every man, even men who do not have the genes to have a beard. Based on Table 9, The post explains that Erto's raises knowledge in men's minds that Erto's Men is a product that can help men look masculine through growing beard even though they do not have the beard gene. Source: (Instagram, 2020b) Erto's Men post on 26 August 2020 ( Figure 10) that discipline of the men body created by Erto's Men through the beard, so that the beard has a close relationship with a man's masculinity. The appearance of 'beard' word STYLISTICS

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
The choosing of 'beard' word and its mentioning as many as four times RHETORIC Showcases Erto's products Source: (Instagram, 2020b) Based on Table 10, the post illustrates that Erto's become an indicator of virility by providing benefits through the growth of beards, especially men who do not have the beard gene. That the men body is disciplined through a macho appearance, one of which is the physical appearance through the beard. Men must appear masculine, and Erto's Men discipline the masculine side through beards. Source: (Instagram, 2020c) Erto's Men post on 15 August 2020 ( Figure 11) states that Erto's recommendation is the Best Serum for Men. To apply ERTO's Essence Serum after cleansing the face to restore and maintain skin moisture. The result is that the face looks brighter and brighter. Erto's Men can also help overcome facial blemishes that cause acne. Application in the morning and at night, spray on face and neck to look as handsome as possible. Disciplining the men body through this post is targeted at men, particularly those who seem ignorant and do not want to be complicated by facial treatments but want to achieve full results. So Erto's Men creates awareness in men's minds as a product that is easy to use but gives maximum effect. The choosing of 'face' word and its mentioning as many as three times RHETORIC Showcases Erto's products Source: (Instagram, 2020c) Based on Table 11, the post shows that Erto's is the best facial care product with various benefits provided. Viewed from Foucault's perspective, the happiness felt by men is created by Erto's Men by developing a sense of dignity and luxury for the products of Erto's Men. Since Erto's Men creates an impression at an affordable price, but through this post, it also contributes to the impression that Erto's Men is not just an affordable product, but also the best product for men who want the masculine side.

Body dissatisfaction and capitalist industry
The differences in each human's genes make the physical appearance and shape of each human being different. The difference in form and different physical appearance triggers in creating an ideal physical form and appearance. Coupled with the media's presence during human life, it contributes to creating an ideal body, in this study, the ideal men body. Digital media has a significant role in regulating and influencing society about ideal things, especially the body.
The exposure to digital media, primarily, which has become a platform for the capitalist industry, never stops bringing dissatisfaction with the body. The ideologies built by the capitalist industry have finally succeeded in getting people to change their dissatisfaction with the body through consumption behaviour, especially body care products, which have become something that must be fulfilled by men who feel themselves metrosexual because appearance is a necessity for metrosexuals to get a self-presentation in society.
Metrosexual men dissatisfaction with the body due to media exposure, inevitably makes metrosexual men continue to improve themselves in disciplining their bodies according to what is developed by the media. Erto's Men also participated in the discipline, especially in metrosexual men, how an ideal men body representation is built continuously through digital media (Instagram).
Initially, Erto's Men built a representation of the men body (face), a man who has clean, bright, and acne-free facial skin, so the metrosexual impression is dominant in creating an ideal facial representation metrosexual men.
However, in mid-2020, Erto's Men created a representation of a men face with a masculine impression. This masculine impression is raised with beards, a description of manhood that men must discipline. Erto's Men also give an overview that men now must grow beards even though men do not have the beard gene, Erto's Men guarantees that they can grow a beard to be thick in a natural way, of course at an affordable price so that all men from any social class can consume Erto's Men as a facial care product in treating feelings of dissatisfaction with the body (face). As for the representation built by raising the masculine concept of a man through growing a beard.
However, the presence of the representation of masculine men by Erto's Men through growing beard does not necessarily diminish Erto's men 'efforts to still create a representation of metrosexual men by making facial skin smooth, bright, and free from acne. So that from these efforts, Erto's Men strives to continue to discipline the men body (face) to become both metrosexual men and masculine men, all returned to each individual, which concept to build on body dissatisfaction. In addition, researchers also consider that the efforts taken by Erto's Men are a strategy that is the goal of Erto's Men in capturing new consumers in men who do not want to be considered metrosexual even though they consume Erto's Men but look more masculine. The emergence of the concept of the masculinity is not an attempt to shift the concept of metrosexual but is an effort to juxtapose or combine the concept of metrosexual men and masculine men through consumption behaviour.
Based on Foucault's perspective (Foucault, 1993) that Erto's Men are disorganising the power over the body as a capitalist industry. The concept of the body that branched off became an extension of Erto's Men's efforts in building knowledge in the minds of men, especially metrosexual men. The concept of the body that can be ruffled is an opportunity that Erto's Men uses to capture new consumers by bringing up masculine concepts without eliminating the metrosexual concept. The dissatisfaction with the body by men that is not in accordance with what is built by Erto's Men as a capitalist industry will create a shadow that helps build knowledge as part of the imagination of the body's concept that men crave.
Meanwhile, in Butler's perspective (Butler, 1988), Erto's Men as a capitalist industry demands men who want to create a masculine impression through growing beards by involving them in activities that are more towards facial skincare to support their physical appearance. This concern is a concept that collides with masculine concepts that should tend to be more indifferent to appearance. However, the concept built by Erto's Men seems to want to build a masculine concept for a man while still paying attention to his physical appearance in society.
However, the researcher also considers that this effort is a motive for disciplining Erto's Men as a product of the capitalist industry by juxtaposing two opposing representations to cover up the metrosexual impression is not recommended especially if it is done excessively so that it leads to the habits of women in taking care of yourself. Because it is back again that excessive nature in terms of caring for the body is more recommended for women, because men are required to look (not too much) and the impression of a man is in the man he is. If this view is applied, it does not rule out the possibility of contributing to the destruction of the capitalist industrial order, especially in relation to body care products which have now become a culture in metropolitan society, especially those that have also used the men body as a commodity in the capitalist industry.

Body image and building discourse
Taking care of the face indeed often raises several views as the fading of the men body image. Men's body image, which is generally seen with a modest appearance, is more in line with the masculine concept that should be attached to men than men with a metrosexual impression who are too concerned about an appearance by using facial care products. So that treating faces often brings individual perceptions towards feminine rather than masculine. However, Erto's Men used facial care efforts to build a culture of self-care for men by building knowledge through a culture of caring for the body through facial care products without diminishing the masculine side of being a man.
The growth of beard which is built by Erto's Men in building the masculine concept. With a masculine impression, men will look more manly as they are by nature as men should behave and look like men, and not dress up too much that is identified with women. Because it is stated that men must be like men, not like women in both attitude and appearance. This statement is used as 'power' by Erto's Men in carrying out efforts to discipline the men body through body care efforts with facial care products without eliminating the masculine side, one of which is growing a beard.
It brings a men impression when a man grows and maintains his beard for health; it also benefits men. Erto's Men stated that men with beards are considered healthier than men who do not grow beards because a well-grown and cared for beard can prevent infection from bacteria and protect the skin pores to help prevent folliculitis and pseudo-folliculitis barbae. Usually, these bacterial infections can cause skin itching, redness and inflammation. Besides, growing a beard can also function as filtration or filter dust that enters through the nose or mouth, especially beneficial for those who have asthma/dust allergy. Beards also help the skin look glowing and moisturised because beards can help remove natural oils from the sebaceous glands that can moisturise facial skin.
Based on Foucault perspective (Foucault, 1993), knowledge of the benefits of using Erto's Men was raised by Erto's Men as part of raising awareness of health through beard growth obtained from the use of Erto's Men. The concept of masculinity is also highlighted as an effort to build masculine fantasies through growing a beard. This situation ultimately contributed to juxtaposing the two concepts of man (metrosexual and masculine) by Erto's Men. The discourse on health makes Erto's Men breakthrough men's identities who tend to be simple and appear as they are in appearance compared to women. The images or presumptions related to men using facial care products can fade the masculinity of a man to support Erto's Men goal as a capitalist industry.
Researchers interpreted the discourse related to health that was built by Erto's Men on Instagram as an effort to build cultural-related ideologies in society, where the masculinity of a man began to shift towards femininity with more attention to form. Men are starting to pay attention through the use of facial care products that are identical to women. However, this was done not to reduce his masculine side, but to show his masculine side through beards through the use of facial care products.

CONCLUSION
Based on the data analysis that has been done, it is reviewed from Foucault's perspective that Erto's Men as a men facial care product tries to discipline the men body regardless of social class and is not always identified with expensive product prices, the emergence of knowledge about masculinity is measured by beards, the benefits of growing beards, maintenance faces that do not always have always to be a bother. Erto's Men's discipline raises two representations of a man's ideal face, namely metrosexual and masculine. However, the masculine concept that is identical to a beard was built by Erto's Men, especially for men who do not care about their appearance through the discourse about the health that can be felt by men who use Erto's Men. The explanation informs the health discourse that bearded men are considered healthier than men who do not keep beards because growing and caring for beards can prevent infection from bacteria and protect skin pores. This research is limited to the discourse on men care products on Instagram from Foucault's perspective. So that suggestions for further research can be carried out on other social media and in different perspectives.